4-Day Bordeaux Getaway Part I: Left Bank in Haut Medoc, Graves, Sauternes Regions
Tips for Planning and Wine Classification Guide
Bordeaux has always been a mecca for wine connoisseurs. British royalty, Thomas Jefferson, wine collectors, and the new Chinese rich all have appreciated the finesse of the wines of Bordeaux. In the last few years this famous wine region has polished and updated its cities and villages to welcome the wine tourist. Many visitors fly or drive in from Paris. Bordeaux is now a river cruise stop catering to wine lovers. River cruise lines like AmaWaterways sponsor winemaker-hosted wine cruises for all-inclusive adventurers, too. Confused by the many AOC’s (Appellation d’origine Contrôlée) or “EU wine regions” in Bordeaux? See A Guide to Bordeaux Wine Classifications by Sub-Region below.
The Spring of 2025 may be a great time to travel to Bordeaux. Finding the right itinerary for Bordeaux may require examining your wine preferences. Do you drink mostly Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blends? Then the left bank is your place. Do you love the Sauvignon blanc/Sémillon Bordeaux whites and the finest dessert wines in the world? Then focus on the Graves, Pessac Léognan and Sauternes subregions. Do you love the velvet sensations of Merlot-dominated red blends? The Right Bank is your destination. Do you want to bike or visit museums? I have a suggested plan for you. See 3 Tips for Traveling to Bordeaux below.
Part I and Part II of this 4-Day itinerary both cater to all wine palates and the suggestions are derived by my three visits there in the last few years. Book a local driver to find your way through the vines and vineyards of some of the world’s most cherished wines and luxurious chateaux. Part I focuses on Left Bank areas of the Haut Medoc, Graves, Pessac Léognan, and Sauternes. Suggested places to stay are included. Part II will focus on the Right Bank areas of Bordeaux and a visit to two recommended museums, La Cité du Vin and Les Bassins de Lumières. Suggested places to dine are included.
A 4-Day Sample Itinerary, Part I
Day 1: Left Bank Pauillac and Haut Medoc
In the afternoon begin your Left Bank exploration at Château Mouton Rothschild , a Premier Cru Classé, “1st Growth winery located in Pauillac. In 1855 Emperor Napoleon III ordered a Wine Classification for the Paris Exposition, ranking top chateaux as 1st to 5th Growth. Château Mouton Rothschild is only one of five chateaux exclusively ranked 1st Growth. Artists such as Picasso, Chagall, and Dali uniquely created each vintage’s label. The Ch. Mouton Rothschild “Museum of Wine in Art” is a destination in itself as it contains exceptional rare art, glassware, and tapestries from many cultures that meld the dialogue between art and wine. Follow this tour of the museum with a tasting of their most recent release. These are among the most expensive wines in the world. Follow the “Route des Château” through the famous villages of Margaux and Pauillac. Wine tourism is being recognized in this region more than in the past. See September 2023 Wine Wanderings, “Bordeaux Haut Médoc Region Embracing Wine Tourism.” A fine example of an interesting wine tour is the one offered at Château Pédesclaux, a 5th Growth-classified winery in the Pauillac sub-appellation. They embrace the old world with new high-tech winemaking advantages.
I had a hands-on grape harvesting vineyard experience during my visit to Chateau Paloumey in Haut Medoc, Chateau Paloumey is a family-owned “Cru Bourgeois classification” winery that was not old enough to have been ranked by the 1855 Classification. Their superior wines are among the real wine bargains of the Left Bank. Arrange in advance lunch and wine tasting on the vineyard terrace and experience the exceptional hospitality of this welcoming family. Harvesting grapes is much more difficult than it looks!
Return to Bordeaux for a dinner at Le Pressoir D’Argent, Gordon Ramsay’s Michelin 2-star restaurant (2021) situated in Le Grand Hotel. Try the Arcachon sole with caviar and oyster voluté, a specialty.
Day 2: Graves, Pessac Léognan and/or Sauternes
First Growth Chateau Haut Brion, the oldest and smallest of the First Growths, is the first visit on the Graves itinerary. They feature a historic film overview of the Chateau along with a tour and tasting. Thomas Jefferson was a big fan of his “OBrion.” The Château is in the Pessac Leognan region one mile south of the city of Bordeaux. Pessac-Leognan is a premier sub-appellation of Graves equally well recognized for its red and dry white wines. Ch. Haut Brion is one of the only wineries to retain the tradition of having its own cooperage (barrel making business). Watch oak barrels being fired and tempered onsite.
Nearby, another classified growth, Château Haut Bailly, features a terrace wine tasting in a magnificent vineyard setting. Or ask them to schedule a private lunch in their beautifully appointed dining room Château Haut Bailly staff understands the new wave in wine tourism trends and they accommodate international wine shipping. The wines are approachable as well as ageworthy. My favorite winemaker interview in the region was with winery owner Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier, Grand Cru Classé de Graves. His White Bordeaux or Bordeaux Blanc remains my favorite white wine of the world. See August 2023 Wine Wanderings newsletter, “Domaine de Chevalier: An Interview with Olivier Bernard.”
The most famous celebrated dessert wines in the world are crafted by the terroir in Sauternes. In this region, mist and warmth create the climatic conditions to produce the “noble rot” that concentrates the sugar in the grapes. Honeyed, apricot-scented, and nutty sweet Sauternes wines are the result. Chateau D’Yquem is the most renowned but difficult to grab an appointment for a tasting. Next door to Ch. D’Yquem is Château Guiraud, a Premier Grand Cru classe Château that is all organic. They produce exceptional Sauternes. The staff presents an entertaining and educational Sauternes story, the story of liquid gold. Make a reservation here.
To close the day, arrange a dinner at Château Léognan, Hôtel Restaurant and Spa in the Pessac Leognan area. Enjoy a wine tasting and tour here then have a leisurely dinner on the charming restaurant terrace that features a seasonal menu. Our dinner included included foie gras, duck, and Filet de Bœuf.
3 Tips for Traveling to Bordeaux
1. Travel during the off-seasons. Travel to Bordeaux in April-early May or October-November. You will miss the European tourists of summer. Traffic will be lighter.
2. Add a Foodie Tour or Slow Food Movement activity to your agenda. Wine and food are natural pairings. The food in Bordeaux is inspiring.
3. Add a “value” appellation to your itinerary. You will be surprised at some of the bargain wines in many areas of the Medoc, if you go outside the large Châteaux. Château Paloumey is an example.
----Pascale Bernasse, Co-Founder, French Wine Explorers
Where to Stay
Intercontinental Grand Hotel and Spa de Bordeaux- City Center of Bordeaux; the rooftop bar features a panoramic view of the Garonne River. It remains one of my favorite rooftop bars of the world.
Hôtel de Pavie, St. Emilion, a Relais & Chateau property. Spectacular views of the vineyards and medieval village of St. Emilion, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Château Léognan Hôtel and Spa, Pessac Léognan region, SW of Bordeaux city center, beautiful
A Guide to Bordeaux Wine Classifications by Sub -Region
Left Bank Haut Medoc- 1855 Classification of Châteaux (ordered by Napoleon III for the best Bordeaux wines for the 1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris). The levels start at 1st Growth (Premier Cru) through 5th Growth (62 wines). The 1st Growths are: Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut Brion (in Graves) and Château Mouton Rothschild. Sub-appellations include: Margaux, Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Julien, Listrac, and Moulis.“Super Seconds”- are those 2nd Growths of Haut Medoc that are close to being 1st Growths. Example: Léoville Las Cases.
Note: all other Left Bank wines are unclassified or Cru Bourgeois (Medoc) –Châteaux that are examined and certified for quality.
Left Bank Graves- 1959 Classification: Châteaus are rated “Crus Classé” for red or white wine. Sub-region Pessac-Léognan has its own AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlée) and is famous for both white and red Bordeaux wines.
Left Bank Sauternes- Classified in 1855 there are only 3 levels: Premier Cru Supérieur (solely for Chateau d’Yquem), Premier Cru (1st Growth, and Deuxiemes Cru (2nd Growth).
Right Bank St. Emilion: This is the only Right Bank location to classify wines. This is updated every 10 years. For 2022 they classify 4 levels of wines: Premier Grand Cru Classé A (Château Pavie and Château Figeac.) & B (12 properties, Grand Cru Classé (71 properties), and Grand Cru (lowest classed level). There was controversy in the 2022 classifications as several famous and previous “A” properties opted-out of classification: Ch. Cheval Blanc, Ch. Ausone, and Ch. Angélus.
Right Bank Pomerol- This region has no official classification, yet Chateau Petrus is considered to rank with the 1st growths in Bordeaux.
Other Bordeaux wines, including entry level: There are 7 AOC’s (Appellations d’Origine controlee) for these wines: Bordeaux Rouge AOC, Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge, Bordeaux Clairet, Bordeaux Rosé, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux Supérieur Blanc, and Crémant de Bordeaux.
Some Recommended Bordeaux Wines (Left Bank, Graves, Sauternes
2022 Château Paloumey, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, France $36
Wine Enthusiast, 91 Points
2018 Chateau Margaux, Margaux, France $1000
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 100 Points
2016 Château Haut Brion, Graves, Bordeaux, France $950
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 100 Points
2020 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Pessac, Bordeaux, France $359
One of my all-time favorite white wines of the world.
Wine Enthusiast, 96-98 Points
2023 Chateau Guiraud, Sauternes, Bordeaux (1er cru classe), France $112
James Suckling, 96-97 Points
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