Borolo and Barbaresco: What’s Old, What’s New?
Best of Tasting Wine Recommendations
Anyone who watched the movie: Barolo Boys. The Story of a Revolution or has visited the Piedmont region of Italy can attest that this Northern Italian wine region is unique. The film depicts thirty years of technical innovations and changes in Barolo, a red wine produced by Nebbiolo grapes, almost unknown until the 1970’s and is now considered one of the best red wines in the world. Filmed in the Langhe hills, Italy, this 2014 documentary (winner of the DOC Wine Travel Food Prize) details how these rebellious Barolo Boys, or Modernists put Barolo on international notice in the wine world. Although Barolo wines were first made in the 1800s, today’s modern Barolo, still highly rated by wine critics, tends to be more approachable than the earlier 1970 wines.
The countryside of the Langhe hills has spectacular scenery. The area is also famous for truffles and the dogs who hunt them. I was lucky to visit Piedmont several years ago during the International Fair of the White Truffle of Alba, complete with a medieval costume procession and folklore events. Later, proprietor Denise Pardini shaved white truffles over her creamy pasta at the restaurant at Castello di Sinio, and handed us a memorable glass of Barolo…we wanted to move to the region!
In February 2025, funded by the European Union, the Consorzio Di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani conducted a Barolo and Barbaresco Academy for the local Dallas- Ft. Worth-area sommeliers and media. We tasted over 24 wines while receiving an update on the region guided by Steven McDonald, Master Sommelier. See Recommended Wines below.
About Barolo, Barbaresco, and the Langhe Wines
The main grape of the Piedmont region is Nebbiolo with Barolo as its most famous wine, often called the king of wines. The Nebbiolo grape is thought to be named after the fog or “nebbia” that is a common occurrence in the Langhe hills in the cooler months. To be legally considered Barolo, the Nebbiolo must be grown in certain designated areas within the 11 different villages that lie just to the south of the town of Alba. Barolo is a serious wine that is rich and powerful. By law it must be aged for at least two years in a wood vessel and at least one year in a bottle before release. It is normally a wine for cellaring, often ten years or more. –However, if you select carefully you can find a more current Barolo to drink young.
A Barolo for me, has these characteristics: the roses, floral, smoky, and savory cherry aromas jump out of the glass. The wine flavors are complex with spice notes, brambly berries, cherries, and tobacco and allied to the structural tannins. Look for a brand with an MGA (see below), as it denotes a more specific geographic designation within the Barolo area. Riserva-level Barolo’s age for a minimum of 5 years. There are 170 MGAs in the Barolo region and geographically it is nearly three times with size of Barbaresco. Vigna on a label indicates a single vineyard wine. A classic pairing is meat, the Fassona veal in Piedmont is famous, game, or intense cheeses like the locally made Fontina.
Barbaresco gets the second most notice in the Piedmont region and is often called its queen of wines. Also crafted of the Nebbiolo grape it is produced in the villages of Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso, and San Rocco Seno d’Elvio and consists of 65 individual crus (MGAs). The Barbaresco wines are lighter and more approachable than the Barolos. Both Barolo and Barbaresco are required to be 100 % Nebbiolo by law.
Other wines offered in Piedmont can be made from the Nebbiolo grape but grow outside of the Barolo and Barbaresco regions. They are normally labeled for the Langhe sub-region which lies an hour south from the Piedmont capital of Turin. The Langhe hills are a UNESCO heritage site. Some of the other wines of the region include Barbara, Brachetto (sweet red dessert wine), a red Dolcetto, a lovely white Arneis, and the frizzante Moscato d’Asti with its peachy aromas and effervescence.
What is an MGA in Piedmont, Italy? Why Do You Care?
In 2010 the Barolo Consorzio introduced this designation. An MGA (Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva) designation refers to a specific area officially defined with the production zone of Barolo DOCG (Donominazione di Origine Controllata Garantita- A high Italian wine standard designation). Barolo wines with an MGA usually represent the most prestigious wines in a brand’s portfolio. This designation is similar to a “cru” in France, or a label-listed single vineyard within a US AVA (American Viticultural Area) but an MGA is not necessarily a single vineyard like a cru, and it does not always indicate a higher quality level. But, if a producer puts the effort into finessing such wine, it is likely going to be one of their top-of-the-line bottlings. Additionally, Vigna on a label, along with the MGA, indicates a single vineyard wine. For a Barolo MGA 360 degree map see Barolomga360°.
Where to Stay
Castello di Sinio, a small luxury hotel, +39 0173.263.889 reservations@hotelcatellodisinio.com
Ask for Denise Pardini, owner, restorer, who was raised in San Francisco, CA but has roots in Lucca Tuscany. Her restaurant is one of the most respected in the region. I can attest to her warm hospitality…a most memorable stay.
Best of Tasting: Recommended Wines
2018 Gianni Gagliardo Barolo, Lazzarito Vigna Preve, Piedmont, Italy $140.00
Wine Advocate, 94 Points
2020 Domenico Clerico – Barolo – del commune Di Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy $54
Luca Gardini, 95 Points
2016 Bava Winery Barolo, Scarrone, Piedmont, Italy $85
Wine Enthusiast, 93 Points
2011 Anselma del Comune di Monforte d’Alba. Piedmont, Italy $107
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