Cabernet Franc: The Mystery, History, and Joy
Where is it Grown, Wine Recommendations
I recently read an article in Jancis Robinson Purple Pages by James Lawther, MW, that explained Cabernet Franc, and its heirs Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carmenère (perhaps you’ve had a Chilean Carmenère.) I love both Old World (Europe) and New World (Americas) versions of Cabernet Franc. Typically, Cabernet Franc has been known as a “blending grape” and an important part of most Bordeaux red wine blends, including those at Château Cheval Blanc, pictured above.
Cabernet Franc Obscure Origins: Mystery and History
The mystery in the history of Cabernet Franc is that it showed up in France when Cardinal Richelieu (1585-1643) transported cutting of the vine to the Loire Valley and they were planted at the Abbey of Bourgueil. By the 18th century, plantings of Cabernet Franc were found throughout Pomerol and St. Emilion on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. The grape probably came from some obscure, old never-categorized grape varieties in the French Basque country. Perhaps this grape is overshadowed as it has reached much of its fame from being a parent. The price per acre it is achieving in today’s market is impressive.
In 2022, the highest average price per ton went to Cabernet Franc at $10,419/acre…somewhat of a surprise as there were only 1,200 grape-bearing acres of Cabernet Franc in 2022 in Napa Valley. Cabernet Sauvignon (24,217 acres) were harvested and sold at an average price of $8,819. – May 16, 2023 – North Bay Business Journal
What are the Characteristics of Cabernet Franc?
Well-made single varietal Cabernet Franc has a mixture of savory, tart, and herbal flavors. It can smell like red fruits-- strawberry and raspberry, black fruits, plum, black cherry, violets, and even pencil lead. If harvested at the wrong time, however, it can have a distinct bell-pepper aroma. I love the aromatics of this wine. Try a rose Cabernet Franc. The aromatics are impressive.
Where Do You Find the Joy of a Cabernet Franc Single Variety Wine?
France makes the most Cabernet Franc in the world with 128,495 planted acres (49% in Loire Valley and 33% in Bordeaux). I love a well-crafted single-varietal Cabernet Franc whether it’s a Chinon or Bourgueil/Cabernet Franc AOC from France’s Loire Valley, a high-% blend from the right bank of Bordeaux like Château Cheval Blanc, a Super Tuscan from Italy’s Bolgheri DOC, a Catena from Mendoza, Argentina, or a beautiful Napa Valley Single varietal wine like that produced by Elizabeth Vianna, GM/Winemaker at Chimney Rock, Stags Leap AVA, California. See “Chimney Rock Winery: Stags Leap- Napa Valley, Interview with Elizabeth Viana, GM and Winemaker.”
Try a Single-Varietal or High % Blend Cabernet Franc and you’ll be highly satisfied with its distinction. Cheers to the joy of drinking a Cabernet Franc!
Recommended Wines
2019 Chimney Rock Cabernet Franc Stags Leap District, $95
Wine Enthusiast, 92 points
2021 Catena Appellation San Carlos Cabernet Franc, $22
James Suckling, 91 Points
Domaine Dozon Chinon Clos du Saut au Loup, Chinon, Touraine, Loire, France, $27
Wine Enthusiast, 91 Points
2018 Jarvis Cabernet Franc, Estate Grown Napa Valley, $210
Wine Enthusiast, 91 Points
2016 Tenuta Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore, Italy, $115
Robert Parker, 97 Points – but it’s just 10% Cabernet Franc, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot
2018 Château Cheval Blanc, St. Emilion, Bordeaux, France, $810
Decanter Magazine, 100 Points – a Perfect Score, 40% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon
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Thanks, Darby. I agree. Would love to try some of the best Aussie Cab Francs. Looking forward to my trip this summer to the Loire Valley. Do you believe the price per ton in Napa Valley?
Excellent article Tricia. A few savvy Australian winemakers have always known that this variety is too good to blend away with Cabernet Sauvignon and perhaps Merlot. And consumers are obviously buying as we now we see more varietal Cabernet francs on the shelves