Celebrating 50 Golden Years of Australia Chardonnay

The Constant Evolution

May 10, 2022

I recently attended a seminar produced by Australian Wine: Celebrating 50 years of Australian Chardonnay. It was a lively discussion of Australia’s most iconic white wine, Chardonnay, with three well-known wine critics and writers.

This year marks the golden anniversary of Australian Chardonnay. With varietal-labelled Chardonnay first produced back in 1972, now is the perfect time to revisit the story of Australian Chardonnay.

From the first vine cuttings in the 1830s to the big, buttery wines of the 1990s, to today’s regionally distinct, refined styles, Australian Chardonnay has come a long way. Its popularity may have waxed and waned over the years, but one thing’s for sure: Australian Chardonnay is a legend with a bright future.

With this seminar you can discover how Australian Chardonnay changed the world of wine, find out how the style has evolved, and why it’s such an exciting time for the variety.

Australia Chardonnay – “Constant Evolution”

Only a few Chardonnay vines in New South Wales of Australia existed in the 1970’s. Soon in 1980’s the peachy, oaky, fruit-bomb Chardonnays started to hit the export markets of the UK and US. They were ripe and at a fair price. In the first wave the wines from New South Wales had a day-glow yellow color that was viscous and flavored of peaches, honey, melted butter, and hazelnuts. In 1982 Rosemount Show Reserve was one of the main golden Chardonnays whic used an old Penfolds winery to make its wine. It won a double gold in a London wine competition. Lindemann’s Bin 65 Chardonnay then cascaded on to the shores of the UK, Canada, and USA. It was the perfect by-the-glass pour of the time.

The backlash in the 2000’s against the “critter labels”- think Yellow Tail - occurred. The pendulum swung away from the bright yellow viscous Chards. Then the pendulum went to austere sharp Chardonnays. Now we are back to the middle ground of many flavor and style profiles of Chardonnay. The story of Chardonnay in Australia is constant evolution.

Leeuwin Winery, Margaret River, Australia

Cooler Climate Regions Producing High Quality Chardonnay

New cooler climate areas like Margaret River, Adelaide Hills, the Mornington Peninsula, Yarrow Valley, and Tasmania have captured the hearts, palates, and pocketbooks around the world. Vintners like Leeuwin (with their Chardonnay called the “Montrachet of Australia”), and Vasse Felix discovered that the use of better-quality oak and less than 100% new oak make their Chardonnay styles more elegant and balanced. Some allow malolactic fermentation* to occur, some do not. Some do pH adjustment, some do not. A more Burgundian approach is applied now letting the grapes express themselves more on their own.

With great Chardonnay, no matter where it is from, you want the complexity and texture of good fruit grown in an appropriate climate and an acid balance with a light-handed winemaking imprint. That’s the goal.

*Malolactic Fermentation ML- the process in winemaking in which tart malic acid, naturally present in grape “must” is converted to softer-tasting lactic acid by the use of desirable bacteria.. ML fermentation is most often performed as a secondary fermentation shortly at the end of the primary fermentation. This can produce wines evoking a palate softness and creaminess, a fuller mouthfeel, and the smell of buttered popcorn.

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About Margaret River (Geographic Indicated Wine Region)

The Margaret River Region is one of the most isolated wine regions in the world, with ancient forests, pristine beaches, and plants and wildlife found nowhere else. It’s also home to passionate winemakers crafting premium wine. Three hours from Perth, the capitol of Western Australia, Margaret River was once a hidden oasis, occupied by dairy farmers and surfers. In the 1950s and 60s scientists deemed it ideal for growing high-quality grapes and things moved fast. Unique to the Margaret River region is a system of natural sea breezes and currents that it receives from the Indian and Southern Oceans. These influences help regulate the variance between seasonal temperatures, reducing extreme cold and heat within the vineyards.

Today Margaret River wine region is home to more than 150 wineries making premium wine. Visitors sometimes outnumber locals. Margaret River is also renowned for its elegant Cabernet - perfect with its exceptional local produce. Margaret River Chardonnay is world class, with zingy acidity and intense flavors of citrus and stone fruit. Many Chardonnay wines here are richer and more full-flavored than other leaner, cool-climate styles. This is considered Australia’s highest performing Chardonnay region.