Cognac vs. Armagnac: France’s Premier Brandies. What are the Affordable and Luxury Choices?
Holiday Gift Guide
It is the time of year that we crave a “warming” spirit like Cognac or Armagnac brandy. Visualize sitting by the fire, fine brandy snifter in hand, and a lap blanket draped over your feet. These fine spirits also make great gifts for your party hostess during the holidays. It is in Western France that you find some of the world’s most celebrated grape brandies. Cognac is the star brandy on the world stage and lies 100 miles northeast of Bordeaux in the French Poitou-Charentes region. Armagnac, located about 75 miles southeast of Bordeaux, is part of the Gascony region of France and is known for its rich, spicy, complex aromas. It is said that “Armagnac is for men and Cognac is for boys,” as Armagnac tends to be big, bold, complex and robust. Many dispute this similitude. However, Armagnac is also a relatively good value in comparison.
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A Little History and Geography: Cognac and Armagnac
Since the third century wine has been made in the Cognac region of France and in the sixteenth century, they began making brandy with excess wine. Prior to becoming Cognac, the brandy, the grapes are fermented into wine. Then in Cognac the wine is distilled in special Charentais Pot stills. Three main grapes are used (allowed eight are allowed) including: Ugni blanc (Trebbiano Toscano), Folle Blanche, and Colombard, each adding its own qualities of acidity, aroma, and weight with Ugni Blanc making up 98% of the region’s acres. For Armagnac twelve grapes are allowed with Ugni blanc and Baco used most frequently. Armagnac wine is double distilled using an Alambic Armagnacais, which is a combination of a pot and a column. Both Cognac and Armagnac are aged and matured in oak barrels. It is important to keep the bottle upright to prevent the cork from being attacked by the alcohol. The alcohol by volume (ABV) ranged from 40% to 46% (92 -96 proof) for Cognac and 46-48% for Armagnac depending on type and brand.
In 1936 both Cognac and Armagnac were officially granted the status of an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) which means they have a protected designation of origin in France and the EU. Extremely precise specifications of AOC Cognac and AOC Armagnac govern each stage of the production and distribution.
The Cognac region is comprised of six growing areas or terroir including: Fins Bois, Petite Champagne (not like the sparkling Champagne region), Grande Champagne, Bois Communes, Bons Bois, and Borderies. The two most prestigious crus are Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne producing elegant floral, fruity, spicy Cognac. 98% of all cognac is exported with over 180 million bottles going to 160 countries. Tourism is a large industry in this region.
“It is well to remember that there are five reasons for drinking: the arrival of a friend, one’s present or future thirst, the excellence of the cognac, or any other reason - W.C. Fields
The Armagnac region is comprised of three growing regions: Bas Armagnac, Ténarèze, and Haut Armagnac. Only 55% of the Armagnac production is exported with the largest export markets: UK, US, Russia, China. Armagnac is France’s oldest brandy according to Drinks International.
“France’s oldest brandy, Armagnac, is one that embodies the word ‘craft’ and sticks to tradition.” – Drinks International, January 2024.
Cognac Quality Grades and Terms: What Do They Mean?
Eaux-de-vie or eau-de-vie means “water of life” and is the clear, colorless fruit brandy that is unaged.
V.S. – 2+ years is the youngest age in the bottle. Means Very Special.
V.S.O.P – 4+ is the youngest age in the bottle. Means “very superior old pale” or “very old” or “vieux.”
Napoleon – 6+ years is the youngest age.
XO Cognac – aged 10 years+. Means Extra Old.
XXO Cognac – aged 14 years+
Réserve Cognac – aged for an average of 25 years+
Extra Cognac – aged on average for between 15 and 25 years+
Hors d’Age – means “beyond Age” between 30 and 50 years, or even 100 years+
Cuvée Cognac – does not refer to age, but to one particular blend or batch.
Grand Extra Cognac – made by blending Cognac eaux-de-vie from different regions.
Vintage Cognac- is a Cognac from a single year and a single harvest, not a blend.
“Angel’s Share” – the alcoholic evaporation is poetically called Angel’s Share, infusing the rooms with a heavenly aroma where the aging barrels are stored.
Armagnac Quality Grades, Aging, Terms
Blanche – un-aged Armagnac distillate
V.S. or three star – at least one year old, or two years if exported
V.S.O.P. – at least 4 years old
X.O. and Napoléon: at least 6 years old.
Hors d’Age- at least 10 years old
Vintage – from a single year, either from a single cask or blend of casks.
“The brandy used to produce Armagnac was made historically by roving distillers. Stills in tow, they would travel to farms in the hinterlands, allowing the farmers to make brandy from their wine without having to buy equipment of their own.” – Wine Enthusiast, June 2023
Gifting Guide: Armagnac, Cognac, Other Gifts
Armagnac
Chateau de Laubade, Produces a range of rare and single vintages. “Most awarded Armagnac house in the world.”
VSOP Chateau de Laubade, Bas Armagnac (750 ML) has won gold medals at $ 45 (91 Points, Wine Enthusiast)
Chateau de Laubade Armagnac XO (750 ML) $80 (92 Points, Wine Enthusiast)
Chateau de Laubade Armagnac 1960, (750 ML), $780
Castarède, named after its founding family, is the world’s oldest Armagnac trading house.
Castarède VSOP, Bas Armagnac (700 ML), $46 (90 Points, Wine Enthusiast)
Castarède XO Aged 10 Years (750 ML) $70 (96 Points, Wine Enthusiast)
Cognac
Tiffon. Founded in 1875, makes exceptional Cognac that has become a reference in the world of Cognac.
Tiffon Cognac, Very Special, $38 (Wine Enthusiast, 91 Points “Best Buy”)
Camus. This family-owned business dates back to 1863 founded by Jean-Baptiste Camus known as “La Grande Marque.”
Camus VSOP Cognac, Single Estate $68 (Wine Enthusiast, 94 points)
Camus XO Cognac, $180 (Wine Enthusiast, 97 Points)
Martell. This Cognac house dates back to 1715 with Jean Martell a leading Jersey/Channel Islands family. It has celebrated its 300th anniversary at the Palace of Versailles. It is now part of Pernod Ricard.
Martell Creation Grand Extra Cognac, $299 (Wine Enthusiast 96-100 Points)
Courvoisier. This company began in 1809 when Emmanuel Courvoisier opened a wine and spirits business on the outskirts of Paris. In 1811, Napoleon visited the cellars and the relationship between the imperial courts and Courvoisier began. This is one of the 4 top selling Cognacs in the world. This is the only producer that controls the entire process from grape to bottle.
Courvoisier Cognac VSOP $50 (Wine Enthusiast, 93 points “Best Buy”)
L’Essence de Courvoisier Lunar Limited-Edition Cognac $5375 (“a rare gem”, Cognac Expert)
Other Gifts
Book Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac, by Carlos Batista, Amazon, Kindle $3.99
Riedel Vinum Brandy Snifter (Set of 2) $80
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Past Articles by Tricia Conover, DipWSET
“Discover New & Old-World Wine on a Wine-Themed Rhine River Cruise” – PrimeWomen Magazine
“Celebrations Are Simply Better with Bubbles,” Luxe Getaways Magazine
Tricia Conover on Becoming a Wine Writer – YouTube by Next-Up Limited
Hi Becky, I do like it before dinner too. I love Brandy snifters and have several types. They are so elegant, but cordial glasses are appropriate too. You are a wonderful subscriber. Keep the comments coming. Cheers, Tricia
Perfect timing for cooler weather in OH. Curious though I see some sip it as a pre dinner drink and others only after, your thoughts on time to drink. Plus sniffer vs small cordial type glass? Keep the great articles coming!