Grower Champagnes - What Are They and Why Do You Care?
By: Wendy Hatfield, Associate Editor, WSET® level 2 Certified
Grower Champagne, Captivating Wine Enthusiasts Around the World
Most people are familiar with the large Champagne houses or “Maisons de Champagne”, as they refer to them in France. These houses often produce large volumes of NV -non-vintage Champagne using grapes from their own vineyards, as well as grapes from different vineyards and sub-regions, to create a consistent house style.
In contrast, Grower Champagnes are produced by the estate that owns the vineyards where the grapes are grown. Because the grapes used to make these artisan Champagnes come from specific parcels of land and are blended in small lots, they can taste very different and distinctive from year-to-year. The sense of place that these wines exhibit allows wine enthusiasts to experience a closer connection to the final product. Perhaps this is why sommeliers and wine enthusiasts around the world refer to these wines as the darling of Champagnes.
“I usually expect better value for my money from grower Champagne. It isn’t inexpensive—we’re talking about Champagne after all—but I feel that my money is paying for the grapes and the winemaking, not for a big marketing budget.
The greatest appeal of grower champagne is its sense of authenticity. Grower champagne isn’t made by a large house that produces millions of bottles a year. It’s made by the people who live on the land and grow the grapes. They know the soil and the history. It is the “farm to table” version of champagne. It delivers a distinct sense of place.” --Dr. Terry Lease, Ph.D., DipWSET®, Professor of Wine Business, California Polytechnic State University--
What to Know When Looking for Grower Champagnes
Identifying Grower Champagnes can be quite confusing if you aren’t familiar with how French wines are labeled. The French term for Grower Champagnes, Récoltant-Manipulant or “RM”, will always be included somewhere on the front or back wine label. A few other clues to look for on the label include:
Check for the name of the village or region where the Champagne is produced. Grower champagnes are often found in smaller villages or regions rather than in the more well-known champagne-producing areas like Épernay or Reims.
As these champagnes are often produced in small quantities and often come from high-quality vineyard classifications, look for small production numbers on the label and/or a “Grand Cru” or Premier Cru” classification.
Check for the vintage year on the label. Many grower champagnes are vintage, meaning they are made from grapes harvested in a single year.
If the bottle was produced at one of the large Champagne houses, you’ll find “NM” or “Négociant-Manipulant” on the label. This designation refers to a wine producer who does not grow their own grapes. If you want to know more about champagne sweetness terms, vintage styles and producers, download “2024 Wine Wanderings Champagne and Sparkling Wine Primer” here.
“I think that there are two reasons that wine geeks like me love grower Champagne. One is because drinking grower Champagne is a small way to root for the little guy & the artist over the corporate behemoth. The other is that grower Champagne can be distinct & different & reveal a little more of a sense of place than most large Champagne houses. That said, I do still love some of the big company Champagnes. Pol Roger’s Sir Winston Churchill Cuvée is one of my favorite wines of all time!” -- Phillip Anderson, DipWSET®, Master of Wine Candidate, Organic wine sales for Ettore & Terra Sávia Wineries--
Grower Champagnes aren’t always easy to find in the states due to their limited production, distribution, and high demand.
Grower Champagne Recommendations
Apollonis NV Théodorine Brut Rosé - $54.99 Total Wine
88 Points, Wine Enthusiast
Comprised of 53% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, 17% Pinot Noir. This wine has a delicate pink color with fruitiness and floral accents with notes of red fruit. Perfect with dessert or as an apéritif.
Roger Coulon L'Hommee Brut Premier Cru - $89.99 Wine.com
91 Points, Wine Enthusiast
An equal blend of Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. This cuvée is yeasty and rich with a bold expression of terroir.
Bernard Brémont Brut Rose Grand Cru – Ambonnayn - $59.99 Total Wine (currently out of stock)
Comprised of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. This wine is a beautiful salmon color with brisk tiny bubbles and aromatics of strawberries, honeysuckle, and bread dough with a crisp smooth finish.
If You Visit:
(They also have guest accommodations) call The Clos des Terres Soudées
Vrigny, France
By appointment only
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It was fabulous. She is a talented newcomer.
Eveline, As you should! I loved my visit to Roger Coulon and enjoy trying new labels. Cheers, Tricia