Lesser-Known Wine Regions of California
Discover Great Value Wines in These Geographically Unique Regions
Wine Recommendations, Video Seminar, and Book Review
I try to attend as many seminars as possible featuring fellow industry wine writers. I met Elaine Chuckan Brown at several Symposium for Professional Wine Writers annual conferences, and was pleased to see that one of my WSET wine schools, Napa Valley Wine Academy, recently offered a seminar by Elaine on the “Lesser Wine Regions” of California. It is important to understand that Napa Valley, Paso Robles, and Sonoma County are not the only wine regions in California! These “lesser” or less-known regions may offer a new non-typical wine variety, a different terroir for growing winegrapes, and good wine value. Certainly, we can all appreciate a good value wine in these inflationary times. You may view the recorded seminar with the link above.
The book, On California, features Elaine as one of 35 famous wine writing contributors. This book has become my new favorite reference on the story of the evolution of California wine. This book is available from Académie du Vin Library and has become a New York Times Best seller, The Years Best Wine Books. Most important for Wine Wanderings readers, I have shared some wine buying recommendations gleaned from the seminar. See California Lesser Wine Region Wine Recommendations below.
California Climate: Grape-Growing Influences
The diverse regions of California tell the story of the complex influences of climate and geology that effect the state. For instance, the Central Valley of California is huge! It is 450 miles long and covers 20,000 square miles. 11% of the California land mass is the Central Valley. It is one of the most important agricultural regions in the United State. The are not just grapes grown here! Think lettuce, vegetables, almonds, and fruit.
The Central Valley is inland and protected from the Pacific Ocean by coastal mountains. When the sun comes up however, air over this dry land heats up faster than the ocean’s air a few miles away. That hot air is rising, and it creates a vacuum-effect to be filled in through the opening of the narrow Carquinez Strait. This effect creates a daily wind impact to the area. The rising hot air pulls in air from the Lodi region to the Sierra foothills creating somewhat of a “daily breathing pattern.” Think of the Central Valley as the state’s diaphragm that pulls air from the mouth of the Carquinez Strait.
3 Key Climate Factors Affecting the California Grape-Growing Areas
1. The Pacific Ocean: one of the coldest currents in the world!
2. The Sierra Foothills: block the land from colder continental influences.
3. The Coastal Mountains: shelter land from direct Pacific Ocean influences.
Geologic Influences in California
Sacramento Valley and San Joaquin Valley and their rivers intersect and form the California delta complex. Massive snowfall out of the Sierra Nevada’s flood into the Central Valley and the Carquinez straight. Sediment flows down from the Sierra foothills and deposits the sediment into the delta area creating unique soil conditions. It is a marshland estuary with 500 islands. 50 of these islands have been reclaimed and are livable. Much of this area is below sea-level. The soils of this area are very wet, but since they originated in the mountains, they become cobblestones then sand and then silt in the delta.
The Lodi Region
Lodi and the delta region have estuary streams coming from the Pacific Ocean which feed this area through the San Pablo Bay north of San Francisco. This bay borders the south side of Napa and Sonoma Counties. Lodi sits at the intersection of the California delta and the Central Valley. It gets all the wind from Carquinez Strait! There is a profound cooling effect from the ocean. Unique fog formations settle through the delta causing a diffusing and filtering effect. The sun does not hit the vines early in the day with this fog effect. Old Zinfandel vines and field blends were some of the original grapevines planted in 1800’s. Heartier reds work well here as sun exposure gets red grapes ripening. The cooling effect helps retain grape acidity. High acid whites do very well here. The Lodi area has the highest diversity of grape types in California with over 150 grape types represented.
Other Regions of Note
Sierra Nevada Foothills is 2.6M acres but only 5700 vineyard acres are planted. 1854-age vines still grow here in Amador County. Zinfandel grapes are king here, but other grape varieties grow well including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Chardonnay.
In Santa Barbara County the coastal mountains turn from a North/South to an East/West orientation producing very cold winds and a wind tunnel. Windy areas retain higher natural acidity because leaves turn away from the winds to prevent dehydration retaining Malic Acid. This higher acidity gives the win a freshness and mouthwatering flavor. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Viognier are plentifully in this region with Cabernet Sauvignon growing well in the warmer eastern end of the region. The movie Sideways depicted the new Pinot Noir popularity in the Santa Ynez region of Santa Barbara County.
The Livermore region was historically the first to be planted purely for fine wine! In the mid-1880’s. California was figuring out what grapes grow well, and vintners strongly established the white wines Chardonnay and Semillion. The Wente family of Livermore brought White Burgundy (Chardonnay) cuttings from France.
The Arroyo Seco “Dry Riverbed” appellation is one of the oldest of the nine AVAs within Monterey Country. It is a cool-climate region due to its Pacific Ocean proximity yet near the warm, fertile soil of the Salinas Valley. Enjoy Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Riesling, Zinfandel, and red blends much like Bordeaux and Rhone and other French origin varietal wines.
California Lesser Wine Region Wine Recommendations
Arroyo Seco Monterey Wine Region
J. Lohr Estates Wildflower Valdiguie 2020, $12
Valdiguie, a rare grape variety originally from southwestern France, was brought to California in the 1880’s where for decades it was mislabeled as Napa Gamay. Fresh raspberry, cranberry, and pomegranate aromas are accented by cracked black pepper and floral hibiscus notes.
Lodi Region
Mettler Family Vineyards Epicenter Old Vine Zinfandel 2018 $25
Tasting Panel, 92 Points.
A deep, dark Zinfandel that has scents of blackberry and black pepper. Pair with baby back ribs.
Sierra Foothills Region
Rombauer California Zinfandel 2019, $39
Wine Enthusiast, 91 points
Richie Allen, Rombauer’s winemaker, crafts this delicious Zinfandel. It is loaded with lush flavors of ripe plum and raspberry jam. The tannins are round, and it has a fresh and enticing finish.
Santa Barbara County
Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills, Pinot Noir, 2018, Santa Barbara $40
Wine Enthusiast, 94 points
This elegant Pinot Noir features rich spiced cherry, flower petals, and foresty notes with silky tannins and a lingering finish.
The Livermore Valley
Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay 2020 $15
Tasting Panel, 91 points
Wente Vineyards, founded in 1883, is the country’s oldest, continuously operated family-owned winery. Located in the Livermore Valley Wente brought some of the oldest Chardonnay (White Burgundy) vines/clones to California from France. This great-value Chardonnay has aromatics of honeysuckle, pineapple, peach, and vanilla, with the acidity is crisp as a green apple.
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