New Zealand Wine Packs a Punch
Celebrating NZ Wine Week, 2023
New Zealand produces only 1% of the world’s wine yet punches above its weight in key export markets. New Zealand is among the most popular and talked about wine nations in the world. First known for its Sauvignon Blanc wines from the Marlborough region, the nation now offers a diverse range of wines, including the Pinot Noir, from the Central Otago region, one of my personal favorite wine areas.
During New Zealand wine week this spring, Ed Wicks, DipWSET, explored the geography of the New Zealand regions, the key grape varieties grown, and the wide range of wine styles produced. For anyone interested in small segments about wine regions, these WSET Bitesize 30-minute webinars are ideal for beginners who want to learn more about wine. You do not have to be a certified wine expert to watch WSET®– Wine and Spirits Education Trust – Bitesize webinars. My wine journey culminated in the DipWSET, Diploma of Wine, but I am still learning every week through interviews and webinars. Congratulations to my frequent photographer, Wendy Hatfield, who recently achieved the WSET® Level 2 rank!
History of New Zealand Wine
The birth of the wine industry dates to 1819 when a British missionary, the Rev. Samuel Marsden, arrived and planted the first vines on the North Island. However, a very strong temperance movement (much like United States Prohibition) occurred in New Zealand in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Reformers argued that alcohol was the cause of poverty, ill health, neglect, and abuse of families. This divisive social issue was in direct contrast to the background of immigrants to the nation who came from European wine-producing countries. Many came from the Balkans/Croatia region and brought wine innovation and techniques to New Zealand. Early bar closing laws finally were set aside mid-century.
The New Zealand Wine Industry
The wine industry in New Zealand is really only 50 years old. All the grapes grown here are European varietals. It is a country with many climate advantages for growing wine grapes with its ideal latitude and long uninterrupted sunshine. This sunshine advantage allows for more ripening hours. Specific soil advantages like the gravelly, well-draining soil of Pegasus Bay, Waipara, North Canterbury, account for some of the superior vineyard conditions found in many regions of New Zealand.
Most Important Wine Regions of New Zealand
Marlborough Wine Region
Sauvignon Blanc (SB) comprises 81% of New Zealand’s largest and most famous region, Marlborough, located at the northern tip of the South Island. Each of Marlborough’s sub-regions offers several different aromas of SB wine. Glacial deposits on stony, sandy loam and deep gravel provide for excellent soil drainage. Marlborough’s well-known producers include Cloudy Bay, Kim Crawford, Craggy Range, and the Brancott Estate.
Hawke’s Bay
Hawke’s Bay, located on the North Island, is New Zealand’s 2nd largest wine region. This region is just far enough north and close enough to the equator to allow cultivation of warmer grape varietals. Still, the cooling influence of the ocean currents keep the region aerated to prevent mildew-based vineyard diseases. Chardonnay is a major grape here, as are Sauvignon Blanc and red blends which include Merlot, the 3rd most planted grape in Hawke’s Bay. Gimblett Gravels is a famous sub-region, with the “gravels” generating radiant heat for the vines. The area has a huge push for sustainability and organic growing methods.
Central Otago
Central Otago is located further south on the South Island and is famous for producing world-class Pinot Noir wines. It gets very cold here in the winters, but not as cold as some world locations where they have to bury the vines in the winter, as a winter vine freeze is rare. The rest of the year there are beautiful clear skies, dry climate, and warm, intense sunshine. Pinot Noir wines are high in acidity and full of complexity here reminding you of the fine wines of Oregon and Burgundy.
Hazards of Viticulture in New Zealand
The biggest hazards for grape-growers in New Zealand are the birds’ eating grapes. They “net” their vines. Wind can also be a hazard, so the vineyard managers plant bushes and trees for windbreaks. The downside? These trees attract more birds! Climate change is another worry for New Zealand and all grape-growers of the world. Grapes are ripening quicker, shifting the timeframe for harvesting, and sometimes not allowing tannins to gain their physiological ripening peak at the same time as the sugar increases.
Other New Zealand Grapes of Interest
Pinot Gris is the #4th most planted grape in New Zealand. Riesling, Semillon, Albariño, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah are getting lots of attention. Chardonnay in New Zealand are underestimated.
I am excited about the Waiheke Island region and Kumeu River sub-regions of Auckland, as they have produced some of the highest quality Chardonnay for decades.
Recommended New Zealand Wines
2021 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay, Auckland, New Zealand, $39
James Suckling, 94 Points
2019 Esk Valley Gimblett Gravels Red Blend, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, $22
Tasting Panel, 93 Points – 47% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Malbec
2016 Spy Valley Envoy Johnson Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, $37
James Suckling, 93 Points
2020 Quartz Reef Bendigo Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand, $40
James Suckling, 95 Points – Beautifully complex. Drink or hold.
2021 Allan Scott Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, $16
Wine Spectator, 93 Points
2020 Loveblock Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand, $34
Wine Enthusiast, 93 Points
Wine Wanderings Editorial Calendar
Book Review: The Wines of the Southwest
Joseph Phelps: 50 Years of Exceptional Wines
Martini’s - What’s New, What’s Old: Classic vs. Modern Martinis
The Democratization of Wine: Collectibles vs. Investments
Summer Wine Pairings