The Volcanic Wines of Sicily
Webinar, Book, and Wine Recommendation
I was fortunate to attend a Webinar produced by one of my favorite wine schools, Napa Valley Wine Academy. The speaker was Ben Spencer, DipWSET, a fellow diploma of wine certified wine professional. He is one of the foremost experts on Mt. Etna wines, a wine judge, and is the founder of the Etna Wine School.
Where is Mt. Etna?
The Mediterranean Sea surrounds the Island of Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean. It lies at 37 degrees latitude with its weather offering an intensity of sunlight, heat, and humidity. The Mt. Etna volcano, 900 feet tall, lies on East slope of Sicily. Winds from the North (like the French Mistral) cool the island and volcano area with breezes that keep the vines dry. Southern winds (“the Sirocco”) from North Africa send breezes but also dust which can cover vine leaves and can shut down photosynthesis.
The volcano’s magnum chamber is changing and growing. Mt. Etna sits on the edge of two tectonic plates--African and Eurasian plates. Eruptions are happening this month, July 2022. In the 1970’s, lava flow went through many of the vineyards. It’s a beautiful region with Flora and fauna changing every year--nature responding. The Allophane, or weathered volcanic ash, aids in the vineyard soil by slowing down drainage and trapping water. This dense sponge-like material helps to retain nutrients in the volcanic soil.
Etna DOC wines
In 1968 the Etna DOC* region was the first DOC region and wine quality category established in Sicily. This includes 2700 acres around Mt. Etna.
Following the depopulation of the island after World War II, the last 20 years has witnessed the emergence of 170 wine producers and 390 growers. Red, white, sparkling, and rosato (rosé) wines are produced. Due to the extreme slopes on Mt. Edna, harvests are manual, cultivation is by hand.
Fun Facts about Mt. Etna Wines
*DOC established 1968
*Vineyards: 1118 ha/2760 acres
*Wineries: 170
*Growers: 390+
*Etna DOC: is only 0.7% of all Sicilian Wine (4.45 million hectoliters)
*Climate: Warm and dry summers, mild and wet winters.
*Main Grape Varieties: Nerello Mascalese (black grape) and Carricante (white grape).
Types of Etna DOC* Wines
Etna Spumante DCO is a Method classico-made sparkling wine. Nerello Mascalese is the grape (black grape of Sicily) that is used. The flavors and aromas include citrus, rose, strawberry, and autolytic yeast. Metodo classico or Traditional Method requires the wine to spend at least 18 months or less aging after the 2nd fermentation. Some producers are aging wines 36-90+ months. Special hand-riddling and hand-disgorgement methods are use.
Etna Bianco DOC is made with the Carricante grape, a white grape, citrus, fruit, hazelnut, golden apple, nutty, herbs, and salinity--all found in the flavors and aromas of these wines. The wines are pale green to yellow in color and are great food-pairing wines.
Etna Rosato. DOC. This rosé wine must be made with 80% Nerello Mascalese--with some additional specified blending grapes allowed. This is one of the oldest traditional wines of Etna.
*Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC): The 2nd highest quality level is Denominazione di Origine Controllata, or DOC, which means “designation of controlled origin.” There are 329 DOCs in Italy. DOCG--Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita--is the 1st quality level. Other classifications include IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica)–the broadest category. Many super Tuscans and other nontraditional wines use this classification.
An Insider’s Guide to the History & Rebirth of a Wine Region
“This book is a total joy. It is a travel guide (do not even think about heading to Sicily without a copy in your hand luggage); it is a get-to-know-you; it is a reference book; it is a love letter.” – Tamlyn Currin, JancisRobinson.com
Wine Recommendations
Tornatore Pietrarizzo Etna Rosso 2017, $48, a DOC red wine of Etna made of Nerello Mascalese, Wine Enthusiast, 94 Pts.
Tenuta delle Terre Nere “Vigne Niche” Santo Spirito Etna Bianco, 2020, DOC Sicily, Italy, $28,
Wine Enthusiast, 93 Pts.
Azienda AgricolaTornatore Etna Rosato, 2020 DOC Etna, Sicily, Italy, $35, made with Nerello Mascalese, Wine Enthusiast, 90 Pts.
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Housekeeping: I am taking a PTO break from Wine Wanderings on August 27 and Sept 27 to attend family events. On those Tuesdays you will see instead two of the “Greatest Hits” newsletters that garnered some of the most comments and publicity. TC
Great informative article! Thank you Tricia for continuing to do the research for us!